So, I’ve been watching “Spain…On the Road Again” now through the fourth episode. Overall, it’s been entertaining, not without challenge. I think the series started off a little slow and I certainly needed to become acclimated to the vast amounts of mindless banter on the show. Not to mention, the gross coverage driving around in a convertible Mercedes is starting to challenge my sense of self. I’ve also come to realize that, though Batali translates well on say, Molto Mario, and on the food network in general, I find him a bit, dare I say self-involved and annoying? Strong words. I do maintain great respect for what he is trying to do with the show, as it’s an ambitious attempt at being a cooking/travel/culture/reality tv show all wrapped up in one. Oddly enough, the best moments come not from the star power of Batali and Paltrow. Rather, the duo of Bassols and Bittman, for me, make the show.
I’m always very aware of the Master and Student positioning of chefs/foodists/gourmands. Batali all too easily assumes the position of Master or Authority. Granted, within the context of the show, this is his role. However, it brings to light one of my greatest pet peeves about gastronomers. Knowledge should heighten rather than dull experience. When one eats great Jamon Serrano, one will smile with delight. When one knows the process behind Jamon Serrano, understands it’s nuance relative to Prosciutto de Parma, and why such nuance exists, a greater joy should ensue. Batali’s knowledge comes across as “been there done that”, where it should serve to exponetialy increase the intensity of his reactions to the food.
Bittman is a vastly knowledgeable and experienced culinarian in his own right. He’s got plenty of books to his credit, writes for the New York Times, and has had a couple shows of his own. In contrast to Batali, his reactions to the food are so often pure and heartfelt. Therein lies the greatest difference between Batali and Bittman. Despite his extensive knowledge, Bittman is clearly on a palatal journey, a Student. Once the pintxos go in his mouth, he surrenders to the visceral experience of great cuisine, rather than dancing on it with his brain. Kudos Bitty.
And then there’s Bassols…
Claudia Bassols, the Catalan beauty with charm to spare. I don’t know how they decided on her but I’m so glad they did. Sure, she’s easy on the eye and on the ear. However, her greatest attribute is that she’s a culinary ingenue in her own land. Moreover, her chemistry with Bittman is the surprise gem of the show. Bassols brings the knowledge of the culture where Bittman brings that of food. Together they experience the food with a wonder that easily douses the higher profiles of Batali and Paltrow.
